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Question 1.  Do I add these in any particular order or rate?

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Yes Swim would get the reaction underway and add the ephedrine in last and slowly, Thats with this big of run. 

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Question 2.  I have read that some use a tube attached to a vacuum adapter on the very top of the condenser where the tube then goes to an inverted funnel submerged in a bucket of water and this is supposed to get rid of the noxious fumes and smell.  I have also read just to exaust it outdoors with or without and activated carbon filter placed inline.  At this scale, I am not sure which would be most practical.  Either way, ventilation will be very good.  Which method should I use?

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Well that would depend on your location and if it can handle an oder unnoticed. The best thing is the less thing, If you have good venting, use it. The condenser should not be blowing shit out of her as if it was a push pull set up so just keep cold H20 going through her with a gentle reflux and an exaust system running.

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Question 3.  Do I have to baby-sit the reaction for the entire 25h time or once it reaches the slow reflux, can it be left alone for the remaining duration?

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You should know the answer to that if you are familure with chemical reactions. Can you keep your heat regulated over long periods of time to maintain the reflux safely?? I could not answer that one for you. Swim don't watch nothing that fucking long.

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Question 4.  Am I to expect dirty colors, gasses, fumes, bubbles, violence or inconsistency in the reaction?

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Only if the start is hot, This is not a violent reaction the reflux, 57% HI and P in the amounts of H20 will not get out of hand. The molarity of the HI will drop though as the rxn moves on, I would try and start with a higher % than 57 it will cut your time down but the start will be critical and could get out of hand... That's Swims foreplay. He's got to have it on the edge before he can fuck anymore.. poor bastard..

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Question 5.  I’ve never used distilled water before.  In this case, does the water have to be distilled water or can I use plain tap water for all steps that require water?

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Ok now I seem to be wasting my time. With that kind of start your talking about why the hell wouln't you spend 3 fucking dollars on distiled water. Of course you can use tap water. You can use ditch water, torlet water, you name it. But why? The cheapest thing on your list would be distiled water. I have ran out of time, I will evaluate this again tomarow and will complete my answers to your questions based on the responce I recieve on what I have already layed out for you. No disrespect intended I'm just tired and need some rest.. Later

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In the Merck, it says that 1.5% H3PO2 (hypophosporus acid) can be added to prevent discoloration and regenerate the HI.  I am guessing that this is useless for me and would add the burden of acquiring it.

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The RP serves the exact same function as the hypo.  Have you no interest in what happens in that flask???  After all what funn is theoretical chemistry when you don't know what reaction id happening.

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Question 6.  I would like to re-use the red phosphorus if possible.  I have read that people just rinse this with water (distilled?) and sometimes with acetone the grinded with a mortar and pestle.  How do I thoroughly clean this and how many times can I re-use this?

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Yes you will be able to recover the majority of the red P, you can look to the search eng. under MBRP and read how the dirty fucked up shit is cleaned, The lab grade should be cleaned similar but not as extensive. You can reuse as many times as it prefires hot... This also you can look up for reference to preparing the P for further rxn's.

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Question 7.  At this scale, there will already be a significant volume of liquid for one person to manipulate all at once.  To reduce this volume can I use concentrated or pure NaOH instead?

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You can use it strait up, Swim recommends a 50% maximum because of the ionic changes taken place in the solution first rather than the rxn flask. And this is how Swim learned.

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Question 8.  I have read that some use Et2O and some use toluene but never read anything about DCM or pet ether.  I would prefer something that I would not have to evaporate so I can proceed directly to crystallization.  What other solvents can I use for this?

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Look use toluene unless you are going to kerplunk this mess, I just posted a thread about naptha under the question about hypo thread above this one go there and read it. As far as other's Yes they will suffice. Why not go with the normal here, Toluene or xline is the two recommended at the hive for this kind of rxn....

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Question 8.  I have read that some use Et2O and some use toluene but never read anything about DCM or pet ether.  I would prefer something that I would not have to evaporate so I can proceed directly to crystallization.  What other solvents can I use for this?

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You will not be able to evap the non-polar solvent and get a xtal. The meth freebase is not a solid and will remain an oil until the HCl is produced.. Either by gassing or by addition of HCl to the non-polar with a substanchel amount of polar below it for the salt to fall too..

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Question 9.  Wizard X says to use sodium carbonate and I've read that others use magnesium sulfate and I also read to be careful of freebase absorption and to rinse the drying agent afterwards which is standard procedure.  What are the best drying agents to use for this step?

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Exactly what wizard X says, he will not steer you in the wrong direction.

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Question 10.  Can I expect a minimum molar yield of 80% (~1186g)?

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If everything goes right yes.

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Some discussion and concerns (probably more to come after trial synth):
In the Merck, it says that 1.5% H3PO2 (hypophosporus acid) can be added to prevent discoloration and regenerate the HI.  I am guessing that this is useless for me and would add the burden of acquiring it.  The 12L flask is single necked and I have no way of monitoring the temperature of the reflux but am familiar with slow addition of heat to bring it all up to a gentle reflux which I suspect will be approximately 125 deg C.

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This is only for storage not important in this case...
and a gentle reflux is the target temp. if it does not reflux at 125 arnt you going to go a little higher, or vice versa? Gentle reflux until separation

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Wizard X says to add crystals of sodium thiosulphate to remove the free iodine.

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I'm here to tell you a rxn that big if you add thiosulphate in the acidic conditions of the rxn before basifying you will create a poison gas that could be dangers to your health, It can be added in the basifying procedure if you will but do it at a higher pH than from jump street...

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the Merck says this is soluble in water so I assume this is just an ‘indicator' that will form NaI or something like that, but might be wrongfully dismissing the usefulness of this step.  I am also skipping the distillation of the freebase because I am assuming that it will be very clean and the method of crystallization I am using is not just adding aqueous HCl and evaporating the whole mess.

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Well I beg to differ, the bees steaming over the goods do it because it affords a very clean product. They are doing the same rxn as you and are very good at it I might add. Don't you think this is for a reason, If you are going to produce a cleaner product not ever doing this before my hat's off to you. Your a better man than I...Now back to reality, The thiosulphate will help get that white crystal right of the bat but you will need to further purify the product by cold acetone washes and recrystalision by duel solvent.

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I also read that it will be hard to separate the iodo-ephedrine and feel no need to try to do this or try to convert this further.

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And why the hell not... The thio will help you here, Acetone washes will also clean this up a bit.. Stick with purity, It's worth twice the duckies and is worth it in the long run, even if you plan on having the largest personal stash in the history of the large cook.
Oh yes hell yeah wash the pre base rxn with toluene first, this is no bullshit. It helps twice as much as the trouble it is. no sense not doing it..

Damn this is a rarity I answer or attempt to answer that many questions in a row, That is a heel of a thing you ask of a fellow bee, Next time isolate them to a few per post, They will get many more responses than just one board bee that happened along and was in a half ass mood anyway... Tighten the fuck up,
Jacked